Farm-ily,
In my experience, one of the greatest joys of CSA membership is that it throws open the door and welcomes variety. It is simply not possible to populate your table with the same foods, the same dishes, for longer than the span of a season when eating locally. Each season has a personality and perspective of its own. Summer is deliciously easy, uncomplicated, like fresh watermelon on the deck, spitting seeds into the yard. Addictive, like cherry tomatoes eaten raw. Winter, however, is more stoic. It is a season whose abundance doesn’t reveal itself readily. The greatest variety in Winter is often dismissed under the deceptively simple heading “greens”.
Our greens in the last several weeks have run the gamut from the dainty dandelion to the heartiest collards. We’ve harvested chard, kale, mustards, and spinach. Unlike the milder lettuces of spring, these winter gems are easier to befriend with the application of a little heat. After a quick bath in the kitchen sink, the residual moisture on leaves of spinach or chard combined with a minute or two in a warm sauté pan creates the perfect wilt. Wilted greens are both tender and toothsome, and retain the flavor of their unique species.
Spicier varieties, like mustards, want to be wooed at the stovetop for just a little longer. First, prepare your choice of cooking fat and aromatics: olive oil infused with garlic, bacon drippings, toasted sesame and ginger. Add the greens at medium-high heat, working quickly to coat every surface. When all the leaves are dark and shiny, it’s time to add braising liquid. Broth or white wine are old standbys here for a reason. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until your greens have reached the desired tenderness. This method of braising provides incomparable flavor and endless variety— well worth the extra effort.
To further smooth and deepen the sharp, vegetal, or grassy flavors of winter’s green bouquet, consider cream your secret weapon. Whether the creaminess comes from actual cream, from béchamel, or from melted goat cheese, its richness creates the perfect backdrop for winter’s leafy superstars. Creamed greens are a Southern staple for a reason!
This week, let your love of local, seasonal food inspire you to see the variety in a single season, and even in a single hue. Try a new type of greens, or try cooking an old favorite in a new way. Don’t stop at salads or smoothies! Just like the season in which they thrive, beneath their tough exterior winter greens are bursting with flavor.
Eat Well and Be Well,
Ashley, Collin, Alexandra, Gabe, and Finn the Farm Dog - Your Winter Willowsford Farm Crew
