Of the four basic tastes (alongside sweet, sour and salty), bitter seems to have the most misconception. Different from the cool, tender nature of summer greens, these bitter fall greens of the chicory family (dandelion, escarole, radicchio) aren't afraid to stand out. They're forward in flavor, bold and earthy, vibrant in their beautiful bitterness. They're robust enough for blanching and livening up hot soups, yet many are light enough to eat raw in salads or as wraps for various types of filling. Blanching is an important part of the preparation process for bitters. Cooking them in boiling salted water for a brief time before immediately submerging them in cold water will stop any further cooking, maintaining structure, softening the bitterness and setting their deep color.
Jennifer McLagan says it best in her book Bitter: "Over time, we've discovered that many bitter foods contain compounds that can protect us against illness, and positively influence our health. [...] In the kitchen, eschewing bitter is like cooking without salt, or eating without looking. Without bitterness, we lose a way to balance sweetness, and by rejecting it we limit our range of flavors. Food without bitterness lacks depth and complexity."
Whether you're curious about bitter greens or already well-acquainted, we recommend playing around with the other basic tastes, too, like in this roasted honeynut squash with radicchio and miso (don't forget to scroll all the way down this week for locally-made miso paste from Umamiso!). We also have gorgeous fennel from our friends at Mink Meadow farm, which adds just the right amount of sweetness to dishes like this toasted spelt soup with escarole and white beans. Have fun!
